Tag Archives: Round the world by Bike

Quest for help before we enter the Baja California and Mexico

Crossing back to the west on the Tioga Pass Road we had a much clearer view today unless the fire was ongoing. But at the same time it became much more crowded as it was Friday and we hurried to leave the park.  Due to the fire we had to make a little detour to reach the Big Basin Redwoods State Park south of San Francisco. And again it was a loooong and hot drive through endless plantation areas with no camping options. Just with the dawn we arrived at the park when they told us everything is full and booked out… Suddenly there was a voice behind me, explaining to the woman behind the counter that his camp site would easily fit another tent. I could have kissed Roy!

This is how we met Roy and Rosy from UK who travelled a month through USA on bike they bought here. (Thank you for sharing this place with us! It was a pleasure meeting you and we wish you a save trip home and crossing fingers that you can sell the bike for a good price again!) They as well recommended a place at the coast road to us. As we were queuing in the traffic yam half of the day we started early to watch out for any camping opportunity. But it seemed hopeless. Everywhere we saw the signs FULL and BOOKED. Exactly at the camp which was recommended by Roy and Rosy we were lucky again. Emily and Arron shared their camp spot with us – thank you folks!

We were thinking of staying another night as we liked the cliffs and smell of the sea. But we were restless as we had some issues with the bikes since the couple of days. The AT seems to leak oil somewhere at the cylinder head; the TA was suddenly drinking water like a camel after a marathon and still having some power hiccups… so we continued in the mist along the coastline. A little bit further south we had a stop at the elephant seal view point. So funny to watch them; they scratch there bally or there forehead while bathing in the sun and rolling over the beach. And impressing to see them fighting and listening to their balking. We started a chat with Cam from the `Friends of The Elephant Seal´ and after a while it turned out that she and her husband are motorcyclists as well; so we were sharing travel experiences and they found out about our issues as well. Spontaneously we were invited to stay with them, using their garage to find out more details and which spare parts we might need – overwhelmed of their hospitality we agreed to meet later at their house in Cambria. We used the time and enjoyed the seaside and watching the seals and did even some more sightseeing. Indescribably how lucky and happy we are. We started immediately the research on the bikes and trying now to find any place south of here where we can order the parts to and can work on the issues. We would not like to cross over to Mexico/ Baja California before the defects are repaired. Cambria has a bracing climate; you always have a fresh breeze from the sea, it is green and we do hope to see a whale in one of these days. We are incredible thankful to Cam and Phil! These `rest´ gave us the opportunity to find solutions for our troubles with the bikes. Finally we had the chance to calm down…

Where the Gollum is hiding? Great off-road trail, beautiful Arches and stunning Natural Bridges

Someway we are sure we have a hidden Gollum with us; constantly we do miss items or doing not logical things. OK, the heat is cooking our brains pretty much… but nevertheless we never had so many losses on any journey before. The list is getting longer and longer: Sascha is missing his chain guard (we hoped he forgot to put it back in Prince George when he refilled the scot-oiler, but unfortunately Kelly could not find it). We lost a poach of tobacco, a lens cover of the camera, 3 mini screws of a lens and as some other things! Dam it! The zipper of Sascha´s tank bag is broken and when he put the new tires it took him 3 hours for mine because he misplaced the space holders – how frustrating that was you can probably imagine… Anyhow we hope we can break the jinx and free the Gollum soon.

The days with Patty and Kevin in Salt Lake City were just great. We enjoyed the Spa, cooked together, went to the Air force Museum and met their lovely family. Kevin supplied not only his great workshop but was always there with and helping hand and good advices. And Patty was the best route adviser for all the upcoming national parks. As well we had the chance to adapt a little bit to the hot climate. Thank you both so much for everything!!!

The first destination was Moab, Arches NP and we followed Patty’s guidance to ride the Gemini Bridges Trail. A beautiful off-road track which we really enjoyed even though I struggled here and there a little bit with the parts of fine sand and big rocks in between. So it happened and I had my first crash. Nothing really bad but I was annoyed about myself of course. Suddenly Sascha was shouting `stop where you are!´ There was a section where the track went down steep ( I would say about 80% gradient) for about 150 meter with really deep fine sand and big rocks. At the end we could see a giant rock on the trail and we were wondering if we will be able to go through. Sascha walked it down in the heat to have a closer look and met two motorcycle guys in the shade of the giant rock. They were coming the way up, saw the road condition and decided to have a break before going it up J But they had the good message for us that the trail is much better from now on. We decided it is better if Sascha brings down both bikes. I felt slightly guilty as it was striking hot and he had to walk up and down this sandy section three times now. He brought the bikes down safe and we had all together a break in the shade while inhaling this remarkable deserted area. We did a little detour to the Dead Horse Point (The legend of this name: In the 1800s wild mustang herds were common in this area. This peninsula, 2000 feet above the Colorado River, was used to corral and capture them behind a 50 ft. fence at the neck of the formation. One time a herd of unwanted horses was left out there, where they died of thirst. – what a sad story in such a beautiful place!) Later on after a break at the Colorado River we explored the Arches NP with its stunning stone formations and arches. Our neighbor at the camp side was family originally from Germany, Bavaria who lived several years in the states now moving back home and they supplied us with yummi fruits and chocolate pancakes (we wish you a good start back home!).  

The next destination was Bryce NP. But spontaneously we were following some signs which led us to the Natural Bridges NP. A wonderful place with only a few people around. We were told that this is one of the darkest places in the US so we were sitting and watching the stars for a looong time…  

3 times lucky in one day!

We are just having a day off at the Bear River Camp in Steward. With WI-Fi, hot showers and a sheltered place. It was time to check the motorcycles, a proper cleaning of ourselves and our clothes – and of course to keep you informed on how and what we are doing ;)

So far we had a great time during our first 3 weeks of the journey. We already have seen many incredible places, met a lot of nice people and camped in beautiful and free places. We love cooking and sitting at the fireplace and enjoy the scenic landscapes while driving. In one place Sascha cought a GIGANTIG pike (he would say 1,5 meter ;))) and I have to say it was the most delicious fish I ever had! The next day we passed a crashed and rolled over truck which was loaded with 40 tons of fresh salmon on ice and we took one out to pimp up our dinner.

Nothing really bad happened so far but we had one really Lucky Day – 3 times luck: On the way down we heard about the Canol Road, a 230 km gravel road winding through 2000 meter high mountains and we decided to do it. The opinions where different when we were asking people if it is open and OK or not… so there was no other way as testing it. We crossed the sign `closed road´ and already after the first meters we met a bear mother with her calve on the road just 50 meters in front of us. She was turning to us and evaluating if we will harm her or not several times. I, Kerstin, was in front and had already the bear spray in my hands and my knees turned into gum and were shivering. I knew we do not have a chance to turn the bikes that quickly on this narrow gravel road if she starts to run – but finally she decided it will be fine and she walked away into the forest.

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The first Lucky time! I think I was doing pretty well on that road, speeding around the turns (this is at least what Sascha said). The ground was pretty compact, not too loose and not too muddy. But suddenly, out of nothing, there was a muddy part which made me tumbling and jumping and I just made it while standing up and opening the throttle. Sascha had the camera running and we had a look at it later – I could not believe I did it!

[Sascha: I couldn’t believe it as well! I already slowed down and was in disaster recovery mode… And then? Unbelievable! She did the only right thing FULL THROTTLE! Whow, what a SAVE that was! Congratulations….]

The second Lucky time! The landscape was beautiful and we were the only one on that road. At one point Sascha was saying: `Strange, I do smell gas!´ and I was replying: `I do not and we are in the middle of nowhere, there is nothing the next 100 km in all directions!´ A few seconds later  I did smell gas as well and somehow my left leg felt wet. I looked down and I could see a little waterfall running down over my leg and boot out of my tank. That was not a funny situation at all. First of all the gas we had been just enough to reach the next upcoming gas station, second the smell of gas attracts bears (actually all kind of smell attracts them as well toothpaste – good to know). Third there is NOBODY around here. [Sascha: Last but not least it was gasoline all over the place and lucky us we did have a cigarette stop just one minute before and the engine AND exhaust was still some kind of cold… if not the bike would just have burned down at this time…) Sascha luckily combined rapid and right, it is the 2nd tank pipe (Benzinhahn) which broke and we closed it as quick as possible with a screw. We looked in the tank and were hoping that we are going to make it. And we did!!! Third time LUCK! [Sascha: What a day that was….]

Below you can find the photos from our travel down from Dawson City to here Steward/Hyder. A highlight for Sascha was the Dredge No 4 and of course the fishing success [Sascha: AND THAT KERSTIN WAS DRIVING LIKE A PRO!!]! Both we were enjoying the freedom, the wilderness and the breathtaking landscapes – especially the Salmon Glacier were we went up yesterday afternoon when we arrived here. [Sascha: Loose, and at times deep gravel… Well done Kerstin!]

See you soon and take care!

 

 

Chimney sweeper brings luck! One day to go….

The bikes are shipped; the flat is empty and the storage filled to the last centimeter and tomorrow we are flying to ALASKA! All “good byes” are done and we say once more THANK YOU for all the fantastic helping hands and good wishes!!!

We will keep you updated regularly and we look forward to receive many comments and news on our posts and guestbook from all of you J

TAKE CARE and see you soon,

Kerstin & Sascha

The question is: Will it fit?

The D-day is coming closer, day by day… We have to get the crates ready for the transport of the bikes to the USofA. The frames we got nearly for free from a friend working at the BMW dealership here in Hamburg. Now we have to fit the bikes inside the crates and build the walls arround – and hey: IT FITS! HURRAAAAAAAAAY… Manama NA ti ti ti ti    tiiiiiii…… and we care!  ;)